It is the first day of her first real job. She has tried on three outfits at home before settling on this. Now she is stepping into an elevator with seven men. All eyes are upon her and she feels their assessment.
As she steps out onto her floor, a familiar voice comes from the back. It is the HR professional who interviewed her. “Nice outfit, Heidi.” he says. Her knees almost buckle in relief. She has started out on the right foot with an irrevocable, good first impression.
Sharon Kornstein, founder of ImageDesign in Livingston, notes that women of any age entering the workplace typically hold one great advantage - and one great disadvantage. Unlike most men, women are aware of clothing’s ability to portray a particular image. In most cases, the ladies have received more training in what pieces combine well, and what image various outfits convey. They know that their male and female coworkers are judging them daily, (even if those males themselves are unaware of it.)
The problem is that, even today, women receive typically less training about what to expect in the workplace. So often times they feel like they are entering a masquerade ball and nobody told them to bring a costume.
* What to convey? “The primary image for any man or woman ideally should be one of professional competence. You want to be seen as the person who can get the job done, with quality,” says Kornstein. Attributes, such as being tough, assertive, friendly, fun, powerful - these are all side traits. They may enhance the primary professional image, but they are not image goals in themselves. In fact, if being e.g. assertive becomes the primary thing people associate with you, it will detract from your image as exceptionally capable.
A necessary addition to the professional competence image, should be one’s individual style. You, of course, want everyone to notice that it is distinctively you who is authoring all those projects so competently.
* Classics, Trends & You. There are certain classic business dress outfits that remain widely and favorably in style. The straight sheath dress, the notched collar jacket, and now, since Hillary Clinton became First Lady, the pant suit joins that category. (The pant suit has now graduated from business casual to business formal.) These are safe, look nice, are accepted everywhere, but should not comprise one’s entire wardrobe.
To show that one is not dull or ever playing a conformist role, a lady must follow the new trends, notes Kornstein. Black, though not banished, is down and color has stepped very strongly back into the workplace. Eye-catching prints and scarves are common in this trend. “One needs a nice blend of classics and current-trend outfits,” says Kornstein, “but don’t let things get dated. Five years is the absolute maximum, two years is more typical before those once-latest clothes look passé.”
Regardless of what everyone else is wearing, you, quite naturally, want to wear what looks best on you. The slender lady with a narrow waist may want to add a belt to accentuate. For the woman with a fuller, more average build, Kornstein suggests clothes showing a straight line, with seams and designs going up and down. “The woman a bit conscious of her weight, should stick with solids, avoid patterns, and draw attention to her face,” says Kornstein. “You can do this with scarves, jewelry, and neck collars on jackets or blouses.” Earrings, a necklace or a scarf that enhances your eyes adds no end of sparkle.
* Finding Your Style. Competence comes in all flavors, and each lady should take the opportunity to look not merely capable, but distinctive in her best light. Those seeking a romantic style, may want to experiment with some ruffles, limited bows, flowers, and soft draped materials. Ladies of a more classical bent, may want to design their image using a more tailored look with sheath dresses and formed jackets.
There is even room for the creative style for the discerning woman who can blend unusual colors and even somewhat flamboyant pieces. This latter style takes some talent to avoid an outfit that merely screams, “look at me!” Whatever style you select, it should be worn frequently enough to be seen as your norm. An image, after all, should be distinctive, but also familiar.
* The No-No’s. They may have 5000 sequins and cost $200 but they are still sweat pants. Nix, never, no way in the workplace. The same goes for any spandex. “Probably the biggest clothing blunder I see, is women wearing clothes that are too tight,” says Kornstein. Regardless of one’s figure, the rule is never billowy, never circulation-clamping tight.
Boots of the large thick furry heavy variety look too informal, klunky, and odd, advises Kornstein; avoid them. Women who do not want to wear their heels all during their commute to the office should wear a nice comfortable leather walking shoe, such as would be worn to the museum, rather than the bilious running shoe or sneaker. “It’s all right to make a footwear swap,” says Kornstein, “but you don’t want the president to spy you in the elevator wearing white track shoes.” And finally, there is never a good time for flip-flops, even on dress down days.
Casual Fridays can prove a bit of a trap for folks. Jeans, for example, may or not be accepted. In some offices, contributing $5 to the office-chosen charity gives the donor the right to wear jeans. The trick is to remember that dress casual is not dress unkempt.
* Femininity. Hiding one’s femininity makes it appear as if the person has lots more to hide. Using whatever style suits you, Kornstein suggests, feel free to express your womanhood. Try to be attractive - people like to work with attractive people. This said, Kornstein gives one caveat, “Cleavage has no place in the workplace.” While this news doubtless will sadden many males, it harkens back to the concept of what image one seeks to convey. On the subject of too much skin, Kornstein suggests to her clients that skirts rise no further than one inch above the knee. This provides ample room for allure, without overt display.
Makeup plays a special role in the feminine mystique. For the lady short on time and/or patience, a simple routine of basics: blush, lipstick, and mascara, will suffice. The key is to take a few calm, uncluttered moments to apply them. This may be in your car, away from the kids, or even in your office. Remember, if you apply on the fly, it will look that way.
* The Cost of Image. The woman who is entering an office setting for the first time can expect to spend from $1,500 to $2,000 on her clothing, assuming she currently has nothing but old college cutoffs and tank tops. “Select pieces that you can mix and match, so you will have two weeks worth of outfits before you repeat,” says Kornstein.
This should include perhaps four pants, two skirts, 10 tops of varying types, several scarves in flattering colors, six to 10 pairs of shoes, and accessories. The accessories may include two handbags, jewelry, and maybe some belts. Invest the heaviest part of this budget on the classic pieces.
As a final guide, Kornstein says to look around you, (particularly before making any huge purchases.) If you have clients with whom you’ll be meeting, be prepared to dress as they do. If your clients are corporate senior management, then the full formal array which matches theirs is called for. Yet even if you provide the same service to local merchants, such dark wool corporate armor may very well be off-putting. And, of course, the old maxim always applies. If you want to move up to the board room, dress as the board members do. Everyone likes to work with folks who appear like themselves. B4
Sharon Kornstein always had a feel for dressing advantageously. She grew up in Highland Park with a lawyer father and a grandmother who owned a woman’s clothing store in Newark. “Every picture of my father ever taken showed him as noticeably stylish,” she recalls. After graduating from the University of Pennsylvania with a bachelor’s in business, in l980, Kornstein went to work on Wall Street. “I started out as office manager in a major real estate office,” she says, “and that’s where I really witnessed the power of a well-constructed personal image.”
Kornstein then took a degree of certification in image from New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a professionally certified member of the Association of Image Consultants International (www.aici.org). In l999 Kornstein launched her own business ImageDesign based in Livingston, from which she has built an impressive list of personal and corporate clients.
